In the nnocturnal carnival of celebrated and exaggerated marginality that was the world of underground club culture in the early '80s all freaks were not created equal. Amidst the flurry and fury of drama queens and fashion fiends, some, such as Leigh Bowery,
one and one is two
bitch body taboo
stood out above and beyond the rest of the pansies and posers. Born out of a time when the antisocial confrontations of
'70s punk became distilled in increasingly more outlandish and creative fashion signifiers (epitomized by thefoppishly flamboyant farce of New Romanticism), when the extremes of one era erupted in an even wilder and
more reckless decadence rife with nihilistic and alienated self-destruction, the type of drug-fueled, hard-core,
gender-bending, and Diony sian deviancies
as much a reaction against the ultraconservative moralisms of the Thatcher / Reagan agenda as an expression of
the heedlessly conspicuous consumption engendered in that era of greed. Leigh Bowery was all this and more. A prima-diva divine, his life was an epic exploration of self-expression and self-invention. If his art was his life,
his subject was himself (fabricated with such
fanciful imagination that it bordered on mythopathia), his
medium was his body, and his tools were makeup and clothing.
Because his elaborate and often inappropriate style-as-spectacle
was a maxed-out, over-the-top drag rather than painting or sculpture
per se, Bowery was not readily accepted as an artist - an unfortunate oversight of cultural prejuidice t that will hopefullybe remedied in part by the
formidable survey of portraits, documentation, and Bowery-designed
costumes/clothing that made up his posthumous exhibit at Tonya Bonakdar
(Bowery died of AIDS-related meningitis on New Year's Eve, 1994). A star in a
subculture that defied its counter-cultural antagonism toward the mainstream by
continually grasping for and reveling in fame, Bowery was famous for modeling